Ohrid!

I am living the good life right now.
Ohrid, which lies on the lake of the same name across from the Albania, is the gem of Macedonia. And after being here for two days, I can see why.
I arrived on Friday as an observer for a three days long training/workshop for high school kids from Skopje in non-violent communication and conflict resolution. The drive is 2.5 hours, which, frankly, I'm getting a bit tired of doing on a weekly basis, but it's beautiful once you arrive here. The lake is wild and serene, calming and unsettling all at the same time. I hadn't spent much time in this city, so on Saturday, Igor - a macedonian who lived in Germany for 8 years - took me around the quaint little old town. It's UNESCO protected and reminds me of a little italian or french village, with winding cobblestone streets. Although now many of the residents are rebuilding their houses to look old, the age of the town seeps through the new renovations. Some houses are made of simple sticks or small boards, falling apart at the edges... The water comes right up to the homes and restaurants that line the coast.. We went to two churched, St. Sophia and St. Johann/John. St. John was my favorite. It's located out on a little peninsula with waves crashing against the sturdy stone walls that surround the gardens and church. It was misting while we were there and a took a bit of time and sat on one of the walls and looked out- imagining that I could see Albania (which is somewhere on the other side of the lake)... Places like this always make me a bit homesick, or perhaps homegrateful is a better word. I don't need to rush back to false outer point to skip rocks or dance on the beaches of Gearhart in OR, but my heart aches a little. Skopje has a river but nothing with such vitality, beauty and spirit like this lake. I was moved and haven't quite recovered since.. Open water (or water that looks open) makes me more contemplative.

Last night, all the kids and leaders went to a restaurant in the center which is owned by the same people who own the hotel-- which is absolutely beautiful p.s.. There was a traditional Macedonian folk band playing music and Binche, one of the high schoolers who speaks amazing English and has been helping me out a lot, got me to get up and dance. So there we were, have way through our chicken stake and french fries and suddenly I'm holding hands with strangers and doing a Macedonian polka. Maybe it's wasn't a polka, but it was certainly the closest thing I've ever done to one! I loved that after spending three days with these kids, who have been talking about intercultural dialogue and some of the problems seen in their schools that I was dancing between an Albanian and a Bosnia, all united in a Macedonian folk dance. Although ethnic and language conflict is definitely an issue here and something not to be ignored, there are so many beautiful people who are more than happy to unite around a common culture. [side note: perfect timing-- It's a wonderful world by Louie Armstrong just came on in the hotel... ahhh background music to my life]

I would talk more about the workshop, but honestly, I understood very little of it. I recognized many of the games from other courses I have taken, but what I think I enjoyed more was watching the students become more comfortable and vulnerable with one another and with me as the weekend went on. Regardless of the lesson learned inside the classroom, I hope these kids will remember how much they learned outside of it.

Fr. Cobb has us do a retreat every year in addition to our Oregon Coast funfest, and i think this could count for half of it. It had times of water and contemplation, but not a lot of alone time for reflection. I'm considering going to Belgrade for a long weekend before I leave here which could be the other half of my retreat. Dive into history [yay] and reading and coffee shop sitting. We'll see. I bought my ticket for Istanbul to visit Lauren (a sophomore sully studying there right now) at the end of my time here, and that was $500, sooo financially, I may not be able to swing Belgrade. Not sure Istanbul will be much of a retreat though. ;)

I can't believe I only have four weeks left. Time has flown by. I love the work I'm doing and for that reason, honestly wish I could stay here much longer. However, I'm ready to speak English at a normal pace again, and live somewhere that doesn't perpetually smell of mold. I do think it will be difficult to get back into the habit of doing homework and assigned things- I'm loving this no homework lifestyle - and hard to see so many of my friends graduate while I pretend to, but come back for an extra quarter... I'm content to be here and I will be content to leave. Just trying to enjoy every moment that I have. (Oh, but I do wish spring would come!)

I'll write more soon, this is probably enough for now!
Pictures below:
Love love love, TEss


View from my window!











St. Sophia


At St. Johann


St. Johann


St. Johann -- my new retreat home.