WEBSITE!

Hello my virtual audience!
The website that I have put a lot of effort into (I did the entire design and wrote the text for it) has finally been launched!
It's not quite done, I'm finishing up the Project Profiles, which should be done next week, and I we need to edit the donate page and add a photo gallery, but it's looking pretty snazzy, if I do say so myself.
Check it out!

www.greenschools.org.mk

Please let me know if you like it-- I've worked very hard :)

Love,
Tess

Ohrid!

I am living the good life right now.
Ohrid, which lies on the lake of the same name across from the Albania, is the gem of Macedonia. And after being here for two days, I can see why.
I arrived on Friday as an observer for a three days long training/workshop for high school kids from Skopje in non-violent communication and conflict resolution. The drive is 2.5 hours, which, frankly, I'm getting a bit tired of doing on a weekly basis, but it's beautiful once you arrive here. The lake is wild and serene, calming and unsettling all at the same time. I hadn't spent much time in this city, so on Saturday, Igor - a macedonian who lived in Germany for 8 years - took me around the quaint little old town. It's UNESCO protected and reminds me of a little italian or french village, with winding cobblestone streets. Although now many of the residents are rebuilding their houses to look old, the age of the town seeps through the new renovations. Some houses are made of simple sticks or small boards, falling apart at the edges... The water comes right up to the homes and restaurants that line the coast.. We went to two churched, St. Sophia and St. Johann/John. St. John was my favorite. It's located out on a little peninsula with waves crashing against the sturdy stone walls that surround the gardens and church. It was misting while we were there and a took a bit of time and sat on one of the walls and looked out- imagining that I could see Albania (which is somewhere on the other side of the lake)... Places like this always make me a bit homesick, or perhaps homegrateful is a better word. I don't need to rush back to false outer point to skip rocks or dance on the beaches of Gearhart in OR, but my heart aches a little. Skopje has a river but nothing with such vitality, beauty and spirit like this lake. I was moved and haven't quite recovered since.. Open water (or water that looks open) makes me more contemplative.

Last night, all the kids and leaders went to a restaurant in the center which is owned by the same people who own the hotel-- which is absolutely beautiful p.s.. There was a traditional Macedonian folk band playing music and Binche, one of the high schoolers who speaks amazing English and has been helping me out a lot, got me to get up and dance. So there we were, have way through our chicken stake and french fries and suddenly I'm holding hands with strangers and doing a Macedonian polka. Maybe it's wasn't a polka, but it was certainly the closest thing I've ever done to one! I loved that after spending three days with these kids, who have been talking about intercultural dialogue and some of the problems seen in their schools that I was dancing between an Albanian and a Bosnia, all united in a Macedonian folk dance. Although ethnic and language conflict is definitely an issue here and something not to be ignored, there are so many beautiful people who are more than happy to unite around a common culture. [side note: perfect timing-- It's a wonderful world by Louie Armstrong just came on in the hotel... ahhh background music to my life]

I would talk more about the workshop, but honestly, I understood very little of it. I recognized many of the games from other courses I have taken, but what I think I enjoyed more was watching the students become more comfortable and vulnerable with one another and with me as the weekend went on. Regardless of the lesson learned inside the classroom, I hope these kids will remember how much they learned outside of it.

Fr. Cobb has us do a retreat every year in addition to our Oregon Coast funfest, and i think this could count for half of it. It had times of water and contemplation, but not a lot of alone time for reflection. I'm considering going to Belgrade for a long weekend before I leave here which could be the other half of my retreat. Dive into history [yay] and reading and coffee shop sitting. We'll see. I bought my ticket for Istanbul to visit Lauren (a sophomore sully studying there right now) at the end of my time here, and that was $500, sooo financially, I may not be able to swing Belgrade. Not sure Istanbul will be much of a retreat though. ;)

I can't believe I only have four weeks left. Time has flown by. I love the work I'm doing and for that reason, honestly wish I could stay here much longer. However, I'm ready to speak English at a normal pace again, and live somewhere that doesn't perpetually smell of mold. I do think it will be difficult to get back into the habit of doing homework and assigned things- I'm loving this no homework lifestyle - and hard to see so many of my friends graduate while I pretend to, but come back for an extra quarter... I'm content to be here and I will be content to leave. Just trying to enjoy every moment that I have. (Oh, but I do wish spring would come!)

I'll write more soon, this is probably enough for now!
Pictures below:
Love love love, TEss


View from my window!











St. Sophia


At St. Johann


St. Johann


St. Johann -- my new retreat home.

Marketing, zee Germans, and a message for the children.

I'm in a big of a strange mood this afternoon as a write this. Neither good nor bad, just kind of quorky. sp? I think I may have chewed too much gum.

Monday:
Morning- meeting with Keith and the Forum ZFD (referred to normally as THE GERMANS).
Noon- Visit to Green School- Drita (SEE PICTURES BELOW)
Afternoon- Meeting with Webdesigner to go over new suggestions.
Evening- went with Ilir to the same bar where the salsa night was. There was a band playing kind of acoustic rock... every song was my *favorite* song ever. -- They did play Layla, which really is my favorite song ever.

Tuesday [today]:
Morning- write article for local paper about Drita Primary School.. apparently I'm channelling McLean and his mad journalism skills.
Afternoon- Visit to Green School- Mirchev Acev
Evening- a run and pilates.. slleeeepp

Wednesday:
Morning- drive at 7:30 to Struga [2.5 hours]
Spend day in the schools there that I've mentioned: half alban german ian half macedonian. USAID is building a fence and installing a new surveillance system. The Germans [there's really only one at this organization, but their title is confusing to the macedonians, and i like this title better anyway] are holding focus groups to decide what still needs to be done.. perhaps holding a competition for the students' suggestions.
Evening- drive back [2.5 hours]
Evening Evening- Salsa dancing (If I'm awake)

Thursday and Friday- Finishing Project Profiles for Green Schools. I'm beginning to think I should have gone into marketing. or design or something. It's seems to be not only what I'm good at, but I'm interested in. I think it's because it's a creative job without having to think about words... I like moving boxes around. Not so big into writing in the boxes.

Mood: very productive.

I need to start reading about identity mapping and brush up on my mediation skills since I'm supposed to assist in a workshop for students who are being trained to be mediators. I'm not sure my years in Gastineau Elementary and SSRM/CDC in high school qualify me as the best trainer in these areas, but it's all professional development, right?

I've also gotten an incredible head start on not on my big IDIP paper due spring quarter, but also my Fulbright application due in October. I realize that this is a bit ridiculous, but i have time.. Something that seems to disappear in Seattle... oh Moe Bar, how I miss you. Just kidding, kids. Don't drink.

Have a good one, my virtual friends. I'm off to make chicken and reorganize [this action allows me to feel productive, without actually putting any effort into anything].

<3 T$

Pictures from Drita Primary School

These photos are from my third Green School visit- Drita Primary School. This was the school I spoke about earlier when I blogged about my reaction to the first Green School I went to [but didn't have my camera on me and there weren't any students because it was still break]. Drita is on the outskirts of Skopje- about 20-30 minutes east of our office and is in a small Albanian village. There was trash covering the streets and fields surrounding, so one of the most important things for this school is starting a waste management/recycling system. The kids, as you can see, were adorable.

Also: this first photo is a picture of the graveyard that I talked about. You can see a human bone poking out from the dirt

not so xtratuff

I apparently only move to places where it's between 28-40 degrees (f) and precipitation is never ending. The snow returned yesterday, and with it, a certain glum mood settled in on the office. Melancholiness blanketing like fog reminded us that regardless of the groundhog's shadow, Macedonia still had a bit more winter. The snow didn't stick, rather, it became slush, the devil love child of snow and rain, upon arrival to the ground.

I think slush is God's way of telling people to lighten up. It's hard to keep a straight face while wading in 3 inch deep water in soaking socks and water dripping down your nose. I am reminded of when I was in New Orleans (age 12 or so) with the Alaska Youth Choir. It was pouring, but as warm rain was incredibly foreign to us Juneau kids, we left the other choristers under the awning to frolic among the pregnant drops.

I'm taking a class on Cuba this coming quarter. Am hoping to become extremely interested in the only warm communist country and move there.

Pictures from the Green Schools

Grigor Prlichev School in Ohrid
5. Feb 2010
Celebration of patron name day or something. The mayor is the big guy and the guy in red is the school's director. Ten minutes later the entire room lit up cigarettes.. I was like are you kidding?


New USAID windows! The students and teachers all said they feel much safer because the wind no longer breaks their windows. Also, to greenify, their heating bill has gone down.


Smaller projects that the students can do on their own include things like this- that remind students to turn off the lights when they leave the room!




Green Club- Grigor Prichev!


New florescent flights installed!


Hallway painted by the kids (aided by professionals). The two schools that I've visited have a strong presence of the color green.




Goce Delcev in Negotino 8.Feb 2010
(the rest of the photos are from this school)


Green Schools. Green Club.


The new faucets the kids bought last year. These ones turn off automatically.


I don't know if you can see it here, the kid in the black sweatshirt by the window was taking photos of me on his camera phone the entire time. Way to go Macedonia, way to raise green creepers.


A rare photo of me.... and I'm working! two birds, one stone.


All of the kids with their two advisors. Such fashion. :)


Posters Made for the GREEN CLUB classroom

Two Case Studies

Today (Monday) and Friday I spent most of the two days with the green clubs of two separate schools and thought I would comment on both of them a bit.

The two schools I visited were Grigor Prlichev in Ohrid and Goce Delcev in the town of Negotino.

Both schools are in the second phase of the Green School Program- so that means that not only have the had the USAID renovations, they have also had the presence of a "Green Club" for a full year and a half now. The Green Clubs are made up of 25 students- specially chosen- and they do different activities on their campuses to raise awareness and to educate their communities about the environment and what people can to do help out: i.e. picking up trash, turning off lights, turning off faucets, etc. They also make teaching materials to do presentations around the school- especially for the younger kids - and patrol the hallways after school to monitor the level of trash left or faucets left on, etc. In addition to their efforts made to change the behavior and habits of their students, the students are allowed 800 USD from USAID to change something about their school each year. Both of the schools we visited chose to change the faucets - either just to non-broken ones, or to automatically shutting off ones.

ANyway, so that's the official part of the Green Clubs. All of the work they do really has affected the schools and the surrounding communities: from helping teachers keep the hallways and classrooms clean and void of food trash- to advocating for buying new light bulbs, etc. However, what has struck me above all, is the level of passion and commitment these students have for their work and the changes seen in their lives as well as the students around them. Unless the US, where school clubs are commonplace, the is the first example of any type of organized group designed to empower students. I remember being in student government in high school and the feeling of importance that came from being listened to, encouraged, and valued as a member of the community. Many of the students, if not all, now feel a personal responsibility to be environmentally friendly, which is amazing, but it also very moving to see the long term effects this type of club will have in their lives. I think this is true of American schools as well, but it's so built into our system that it's hard to get through life without having been part of some sort of club, and the effect has probably been diluted by the intention to "empower" everyone- quite difficult when trying to run a high school.

One story was especially touching. Martin, a kid who had issues at home and at school and was known as the bully, was going downhill very fast. After a few months in the green club, he has become a passionate and sincere advocate for being green and although the younger kids may still be slightly scared of him, they now only have to recycle instead of give up their lunch money...

One of the advisors said that when the students put on their green shirts- donated by USAID- they take on a certain maturity and responsibility, through which they've gained respect from the students and the GC members respect their fellow students as well. I asked if they were the same after they took their shirts off- hoping that the maturity stuck around outside of their one meeting a week. The advisor laughed, held his head in his hands, and said: They never take them off- Every student wears his teeshirt every day!

I'm inspired. If these students can find a passion at age 12, I certainly can soon.

Love,
Tess

Winter Funk

Yesterday I went on my first run since I've been here. I normally try to incorporate a significant amount of exercise into my daily routine, but the past few weeks it's been difficult to motivate myself to move after a long day in front of a computer-- especially since the sun is well on its way to setting by 5, when I get off work. But yesterday afternoon is geared up in my running tights and long-sleeved zip up, prepared to brave the elements that accompany any eastern european winter. Surprised, I left my apartments and entered into what felt like 65 degree weather! I checked later and it was only 46, but the sun was shining and people were out with their dogs- sometimes it seemed they had heard an American would be out running and didn't want to miss the show. A lot of people stared at me. One woman was just awkward about it, so I smiled and waved. :)

One of the reasons it was so important for me to get out and exercise is that I'm feeling like I'm slipping into my annual winter funk. Although the symptoms resemble a light depression, it feels more like an incredibly calm indifference. Actually it's not always a bad thing. I feel exhausted and relaxed at the same time.. but all the time. Kind of unmotivated, listless even. But I'm from Alaska and this is the first time I've lived anywhere south of Seattle (latitude-wise), so these sorts of swings are not unfamiliar. And some of it is the weather.

But some of it is my frustration with work right now. As I've said many times, my coworkers are incredibly great and very well intentioned, but I can only imagine how difficult it is to have a non-Macedonian speaking 'Academic Intern" with them. They can't give me busy work, but I also have to have things that are recordable to the program and it's goals. Which is great and I would be thrilled doing it, if they seemed to have the work for me. When I was given my placement, I was told I was attractive to the PEP project because I speak German and I'm interested in conflict resolution/prevention through dialogue and education. And yes, that speaks directly to one area of my Scope of Work. However, that is the part I haven't started. In the mean time, I've been working on Green Schools. When I work with Milica, from the other organization, I am excited and feel useful and productive. But for the past full week, I've had very little to do. Today I asked if I could take on some research in the field of educational funding in relationship with the government-- so tracking how educational policy and its funding has changed since 1991 when Macedonia became a democracy. I was told that it really didn't have anything to do with my project and that we needed to show that all of my time was being used to help the project. But for the past week, very little I've done has helped the project.

I'm not complaining and I'm sorry if it comes off that way. I needed to vent briefly. I am at my happiest when I am engaged intellectually and am stimulated by whatever task I am given - which often can be any task at all. I understand and appreciate the work that everyone around me is doing and see that it is difficult to have a new person without language skills to try and keep busy.

Hopefully the days will continue getting longer- they're already 10 hours!, the weather will get nicer and I will get busier.

Until then, I'll continue doing the things I know will best help me in gettin' thru the funk!

Love,
Tess